I’m finally back. For a long while I didn’t write because I lost interest, but now, if you’re interested, there will be new posts; I like pictures too, so new pictures are coming. Also, I am going to restructure what sort of content I put into my blog and I am doing this for you – well, that’s what I like to tell you, but it’s really for me. Anyway, please visit often, comment, read, and enjoy!
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Hey Matt, I think I wrote you some email a while back, but can’t recall.
I see you’ve done the Moonbeam crack in Josh. I’ve been working it (I live in Josh, so it’s reasonable to project it) and am stumped on the crux. At 5’9″, after hanging the big move out left, with a first knuckle lock (left hand) I have no feet to use to cross/match into the sloping slot/ledge.
Talked to Alan, who sent it recently, got some beta…went back and the foot he used to match is like 4-6″ too low/out of reach for me…saw him after and did a reach comparison..he’s got about 7″ or more of reach on me.
I know this is absurd beta wankery, but I gather you’re around the same height as me and are the only person I’ve heard of under 6′ to send it. So I’m curious what in the world you did for feet? Way high in the lieback, then chuck for the match or one arm pullup off the lock or something? Seems ridiculous for 13b.
By: Will on December 4, 2010
at 9:28 pm
Hey Will, sorry for the delayed response. It has been a while since I did Moonbeam. I am 5’9 and the move was huge for me. I don’t remember the exact sequence, but I know I crossed my right hand to the good part of the slot and used a tiny intermediate for my left…I remember getting my right foot in a dimple near the crack and my left foot on a black nub just left of the crack on the face (a lie back). The move was explosive and it took me many attempts to stick; for me it was a very low percent move. The best training advice I can think of is building up your shoulder strength ie RING training. I had been doing a lot and hitting the upper crack with my left hand as a gaston first was key for me, but shoulder intensive…let me know how it goes! I am sure you will send!
By: mattspohn on January 7, 2011
at 7:23 pm