Posted by: mattspohn | August 18, 2010

Getting on the Zoo Zoo Train

MJ Sneaks and I, and our new addition Zoo Zoo, made it out to Smith Rock.  Four days of fun in the sun: sleeping in, drinking mate, swimming, and climbing late.  The trip started off okay for me (well, the climbing that is).  I recently had a rope split through the sheath and some of the core and my head needed a little coaxing; I know it’s safe, I know it’s safe, I know it’s safe. But MJ Sneaks started off great – Henious Cling 5.12a, checkMy turn…shaky, scared, taking.  Next day: much better, much more relaxed.  I onsite the Tsunami Route, 5.12c, in Shipwreck Gully and try Darkness at Noon, 5.13a.  Darkness settles in and I’ve given two goes…it’s not my style, but I’m psyched for it.  What a way to train; a 105 foot route, crimps all the way, a crux at the top, and…yes…tiny, tiny crimps.  I give it my all and send it on my 5th try total.  MJ Sneaks does Henious again. My dad, step-mom, and niece come out to visitZoo Zoo gets her first camping excursion.  The sun sets and Venus glows just above Asteriks Pass and I have just under a month to get into shape to send something hard before my birthday.

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