Posted by: mattspohn | July 17, 2010

Pinhead done TRAD

It’s been awhile…almost a month, but all’s well.  MJ Sneaks and I got Zoo Zoo, a baby chichi, and she has been a good hand-full.  She’s an ultimate crag dog too and a quick learner of climbing dog etiquette.  Anyway, a quick update for the curious.  My hand is slowly coming around and feels better (almost) every day.  Today I did the first ever trad ascent of Pinhead, 11D, a local route at Broughtons Bluff.  The placements are sparse and not ideal, but still okay (I never did test them though).  Up high, the mental crux came as I had to match on a half-pad crimp and traverse left and off route in order to place a #2 metolious.  From here it’s about 20 feet to the anchors and through the “crux,” although not so bad when compared to the little traverse below.  I’ve been getting out some and feeling pretty good, but the East Face may be postponed for a few months.  I intend on trying it soon, but my endurance feels ify and certain holds make my right hand feel super weak.  We’ll see what happens.

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